How to Sew a Off-Shoulder Bow Corset Leotard
Jump to Instructions
Overview
Learn how to sew our Off-Shoulder Oversized Bow Corset Leotard Sewing Pattern, a fierce twist on the classic corset leotard, designed for drag queens who want to mix glamour with camp. Featuring a princess seam corset base and a lace-up back, this PDF sewing pattern snatches the waist while delivering stage-ready elegance.
Fabric Yardage
For fabric bolt widths of 54" or more.
| Size | Fabric A - Leotard | Fabric B - Bow | Lining | Interfacing | Bias Trim | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Yards | Meters | Yards | Meters | Yards | Meters | Yards | Meters | Yards | Meters | |
| XS | 1 | 1 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 |
| S | 1 | 1 | 2 | 1.5 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1.5 | 2 | 2 |
| M | 1 | 1 | 2 | 1.5 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1.5 | 2 | 2 |
| L | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 2 |
| XL | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2.5 | 2 |
| 2X | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2.5 | 2 |
| 3X | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2.5 | 2.5 |
| 4X | 1.5 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 1.5 | 1 | 2 | 2.5 | 2.5 |
Sizing Details
This corset design instantly takes 3 inches off your waist, so keep that in mind when choosing your size. The waist numbers in our chart reflect your natural waist measurement, not the reduced corseted waist. The Bow Corset Leotard is drafted in our exclusive drag queen sizes from XS to 4X, created to fit padded bodies with broader shoulders, arms, and legs. While this pattern is made with drag performers in mind, it can be worn by anyone—of any gender—who matches the size measurements provided.
| Sizes | XS | S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Inches | |||||||||||
| Bust | 35”-37” | 38”-40” | 40”-42” | 44”-46” | 47”-49” | 50”-52” | 53”-55” | 56”-58” | |||
| Waist | 26”-28” | 29”-31” | 32”-34” | 35”-37” | 38”-40” | 41”-43” | 44”-46” | 47”-49” | |||
| Hips | 37”-39” | 40”-42” | 43”-45” | 46”-48” | 49”-51” | 52”-54” | 54”-56” | 58”-60” | |||
| Height | 70" | 70" | 70" | 70" | 70" | 70" | 70" | 70" | |||
| Centimeters | |||||||||||
| Bust | 89-94 | 96-102 | 102-107 | 112-117 | 119-124 | 127-132 | 135-140 | 142-147 | |||
| Waist | 66-71 | 74-79 | 81-86 | 89-94 | 96-102 | 104-109 | 112-117 | 119-124 | |||
| Hips | 94-99 | 102-107 | 109-114 | 117-122 | 124-130 | 132-137 | 137-142 | 147-152 | |||
| Height | 178 | 178 | 178 | 178 | 178 | 178 | 178 | 178 | |||
Our unique drag sizes are based on U.S. Standard Men’s and Women’s Plus sizes, designed to fit male bodies with padding with an average height of 70 inches. They feature longer torsos, wider shoulders, arms, and legs, and a shorter crotch inseam compared to standard women’s sizing, making them inclusive for anyone matching the provided measurements.
Fabric & Notions
Suitable for light to medium weight non-stretch fabrics:
- Satin
- Leather (real or faux)
- Denim
- Cotton canvas
- Twill
- Brocade
- Velvet
Notions
- 6–8mm Rigilene Boning
- Medium-weight or Heavy-weight Fusible Interfacing, or Foam Interfacing (depends on how stiff you want your bow to be)
- Ribbon/Lace Cord
- Double Folded Bias Trim/Tape
- Corset Eyelets
Sewing Instructions
Color Guide
Fabric Pieces
After cutting your fabric, you should have the following pieces:
Shell: 2 mirrored number 1 (Center Front), 2 mirrored number 2, 2 mirrored number 3, 2 mirrored number 4, 2 mirrored number 5, 2 mirrored number 6 (Center Back), 1 number 7 (Gusset), 2 number 8 (Bow, cut on fold), 1 number 9 (Bow Ribbon).
Lining: 2 mirrored number 1 (Center Front), 2 mirrored number 2, 2 mirrored number 3, 2 mirrored number 4, 2 mirrored number 5, 2 mirrored number 6 (Center Back), 1 number 7 (Gusset).
Interfacing
Gather the two “6” pieces (Center Back) and the two “6i” Placket Interfacing pieces. Iron interfacing onto the wrong side of the center back pieces to support the eyelets.
Interface both “8” Bow pieces and the “9” Bow Ribbon piece.
Sewing the Bow
Take the “9” Bow Ribbon piece. Fold it in half right sides together and sew the long edge. Flip right side out and press. Sew the short sides together and press open. You now have a loop.
Take the two “8” Bow pieces. Place right sides together and sew top edge from notch to notch, then down both vertical sides and the bottom edge, leaving the corners raw. Snip seam allowance at the notch, turn, and press.
Mark the center of the bow. Slide the bow through the ribbon loop, align it at center, arrange folds, and hand-stitch the loop to the bow with the loop seam to the back.
Sewing the Shell
Take the two “1” Center Front pieces and sew them together with right sides facing along the center front seam.
Press seam allowances open. Sew remaining pieces right sides together in this order: 6 (Center Back), 5, 4, 3, 2, 1 (Center Front). Pin at waistline before sewing.
Boning
Prepare Rigilene boning. Sew one bone at each seam except center front, which gets two. Cut bones 1 inch shorter than seam height and round ends to prevent ripping.
Flip each seam the opposite direction and sew the boning to the seam allowance only. Flip seam back so the bone is enclosed.
For help, see this video: How to sew boning.
Sew the two “6” Center Back pieces together from bottom to notch. Attach the “7” Gusset to center back and center front.
Sewing the Lining
Repeat the shell steps to assemble the lining. Do not add boning to the lining.
Attaching the Bow to the Leotard
Align the bow’s raw edge to piece 6 of the shell, ½ inch away from the center back seam allowance. Baste stitch the bow to the shell.
Assembling Shell with Lining
Stack the shell and lining with right sides together, enclosing the bow. Sew along top and center back edges. Do not catch bow ends in the seam. Flip right side out and trim seam allowance if needed.
Center Back Boning and Lacing
Sew three vertical channels at center back about 0.5 inches apart. Insert two bones per side, leaving the middle channel empty for eyelets. Stitch across top and bottom to secure bones.
Add eyelets into the empty center column for lacing.
Finishing the Leotard
Finish leg openings with a double-folded bias trim.
Securing the Bow Ribbon
Stitch the back of the bow ribbon to the center front by hand to keep it in place. For extra stability, tack the back of the bow to the top of the second bone with a few stitches. Only sew through the back of the bow and ribbon so stitches remain hidden.
Related Video Tutorial
Watch our related video tutorial—it follows a similar construction process and makes a great reference.
