Color Guide

Choose Design Style

This is a sleeveless stretch leotard. You can choose between two construction styles: a back zipper, or corset-style eyelets along both side seams. The side panels can be laced, or sewn closed as solid panels if you prefer a non-laced finish.

The center front heart includes two options. One option is a fully stretch heart cut from the same four-way stretch fabric as the body. The second option is a structured heart cut from non-stretch materials such as faux leather or vinyl.

If you choose the structured heart with corset sides, use four-way stretch fabric for all main body pieces. Use non-stretch fabric only for the center heart and the corset side panels with eyelets. All remaining pattern pieces should be cut from four-way stretch fabric.

Fabric Pieces

The paper pattern includes 25 pieces. Use the paper pattern to cut your fabric. Fabric letters are included to help you identify and color code which pieces are cut from stretch or non stretch fabric.

For the front, you should have the following pieces. Piece 1 is the collar and is cut on the fold. Piece 2 is the center front neck piece. Piece 3 has two pieces, cut mirrored. Piece 4 has two pieces, cut mirrored. Piece 5 has two pieces, cut mirrored.

For the heart options, choose one of the following. If using the stretch heart, cut one piece 7 on the fold. If using the structured heart, cut two piece 8A mirrored, two piece 8B mirrored, and two piece 8C mirrored using non stretch fabric.

Continuing down the front. Piece 9 is cut on the fold. Piece 10 has two pieces, cut mirrored. Piece 11 has two pieces, cut mirrored.

For the back, cut the following pieces. Piece 12 has two pieces, cut mirrored. Piece 13 is cut once on the fold. Piece 14 has two pieces, cut mirrored. Piece 15 has two pieces, cut mirrored. Piece 16 has two pieces, cut mirrored. Piece 17 has two pieces, cut mirrored. P

For the side panels, cut four pieces of piece 19. These are used for both the front and back side panels.

For trims, cut two of piece 20 for the stretch armhole trim. Cut two of piece 21 for the leg opening trim.

For each glove, cut two mirrored pieces of piece 22, two pieces of piece 23, and one piece of piece 24. The finger loop is used as a measurement guide only. Cut it from elastic or stretch fabric rather than fabric yardage.

Assembling the Front Upper Bodice

Start with pieces 2 and 3. Place them right sides together and sew along the straight edge using a stretch stitch, lightning bolt stitch, or zig zag stitch. You may serge the seam at a 3⁄8 inch seam allowance. For performance wear, it is best to use both a stretch stitch and a serged finish. Use this method for all stretch panels.

Repeat to attach the second piece 3 to the opposite side of piece 2

Next, assemble pieces 4 and 5. Piece 5 sits inside piece 4. Match and pin the notches, then sew slowly around the curved and angled point using a stretch stitch. Serge the long edge after sewing.

Once complete, attach the combined 2 and 3 unit to the assembled 4 and 5 unit. This forms the upper front neckline above the bust area.

Attach piece 6 to the top shoulder edge of piece 5. Place right sides together and sew using the same stretch stitch method as before. Serge the seam after sewing for added strength.

Assembling the Front Heart

If using the structured non stretch heart, assemble the piece 8 sections first. Sew piece 8A to piece 8B with right sides together, matching the notches, using a straight stitch.

Press the seam open on the wrong side. For a design detail, topstitch on both sides of the seam or to one side only. Optional boning can be inserted at this stage for added structure, or you may leave it flat with topstitching only.

Next, sew the joined 8A and 8B pieces to piece 8C along the lower heart edge. Repeat for the opposite side. Then sew both heart halves together along the center front of piece 8C to create one complete heart.

If you are using the structured non stretch heart, you may optionally line the heart pieces with a shell interlining and interfacing to help maintain the shape of the bust area. Alternatively, a faux leather or vinyl with enough body can be used on its own without additional support. Choose the method that gives you the structure and flexibility you prefer.

If you are not using the structured heart, you can use the stretch piece 7 instead. This is the stretch heart and is cut on the fold as one complete piece.

Assembling the Front Lower Panels

Sew piece 9 to piece 10 with right sides together, matching the notches. Use a stretch stitch, then finish the seam with a serged stitch.

Next, sew piece 10 to piece 11 in the same way. Continue using a stretch stitch followed by a serged finish for durability.

Assembling the Front

Attach the assembled upper front bodice to your chosen heart piece. Next, sew the lower front bodice to the bottom edge of the heart.

Sew piece 9 to piece 4 along the angled top edge of the heart to complete the front assembly.

When sewing non stretch to stretch fabric, gently stretch the stretch fabric as needed so all notches align. Finish the non stretch edges with a serger or apply bias trim on the wrong side to cleanly cover the raw edges.

Assembling the Back

Once the front is complete, move on to the back assembly. Sew piece 12 to piece 13 along the top and bottom edges using a stretch stitch. Next, attach piece 14 to piece 12 and the top edge of piece 13 at the center back. This section is designed for the zipper placement.

Attach piece 15 to the combined 12 and 13 assembly. Then sew piece 16 inside piece 15 along the angled edge.

Along the lower back, sew piece 17 to piece 13 at the hip edge. Then attach piece 18 to piece 17 along the side hip edge.

Repeat this process for both sides of the back.

Shoulder and Collar

Connect the front and back at the shoulder by sewing the remaining edge of piece 6 to the top edge of piece 16. Place right sides together and sew using a stretch stitch, then finish the seam as desired.

Once the shoulders are joined, prepare the collar. Fold the collar piece in half vertically with wrong sides together and press or baste if needed.

Pin the folded collar to the neckline with right sides together, starting at the center back edge of piece 14. Continue pinning around the back neckline, around the front neckline, and finish at the opposite edge of piece 14.

Sew the collar in place using a stretch stitch, then reinforce with a serged finish.

Zipper

Attach the zipper at the center back. You may use an invisible or exposed zipper. Follow the instructions provided with your zipper for best results.

Pin the right side of the zipper to the right side of the back pieces, starting at the collar edge. Excess zipper tape at the top can be folded inward or hidden inside the collar.

Pin the zipper down along piece 14 and sew using a straight stitch. Adding stabilizer behind the zipper is recommended to prevent rippling or bumps. Repeat for the opposite side of the zipper. The zipper tail can be left inside the garment or stitched into the seam allowance below piece 14.

Crotch and Trim

Sew the front and back crotch pieces together with wrong sides facing each other along the crotch edge.

Once the crotch is complete, add the trims to the leg openings and armholes.

Fold pieces 20 and 21 vertically in half with wrong sides together to create folded trims. Pin the trims to the garment with right sides together.

Match the center notch of piece 21 to the crotch seam where the front and back meet, then pin the trim evenly around the leg opening toward the side seam. Repeat the same process with piece 20 for the armholes.

Side Panels

Attach the side panels next. Each side uses two piece 19 panels cut from non stretch fabric. Faux leather works well. Interfacing is optional but recommended if you want extra strength for the eyelets.

Take one piece 19 and fold it vertically with right sides together. Sew along the top and bottom edges. Turn the piece right side out.

Create vertical tunnels. One center tunnel is for eyelets. The two outer tunnels are for boning. If needed, open the bottom seam to insert boning, then refold and topstitch the bottom edge closed.

Once finished, attach the raw long edge of the side panel to the garment. For the back, sew from piece 15 down to piece 18. For the front, sew from piece 9 down to piece 11. Repeat for the opposite side.

Use the eyelet placement guide to mark, punch, and install the eyelets.

Lace the side panels using ribbon, lace, or cord. You can choose a functional lacing style or a decorative style since the garment also has a back zipper. Refer to lacing tutorials online to explore different visual effects, including looped or crisscross styles.

If you are not using corset or laced side panels, you can sew the sides closed instead.

Remove the fold line from piece 19 and add a seam allowance, then sew it as a regular side panel. Alternatively, you can test using a single piece 19 per side instead of combining two pieces. Adjust fit and seam allowance as needed before final stitching.

Assembling the Gloves

The gloves are made primarily from stretch fabric. Piece 23 may be cut from non stretch fabric if desired, but boning is not needed. The glove should remain flexible. You can simulate the corset look with topstitching only, without inserting boning.

For each glove, start with the two piece 23 sections. Assemble them the same way as the side panels, but without boning. Once assembled, sew the combined piece 23 to the top edge of piece 24.

Next, sew the long raw edge of piece 23 to piece 22 using a stretch stitch. Piece 22 should be cut from stretch fabric.

Sew the two piece 22 sections together along the inner arm seam.

Create a finger loop using thin elastic or cord elastic. Attach it to the bottom edge of piece 24, crossing the ends to secure.

To finish, clean the remaining raw edges using a folded hem, rolled hem, bias tape, or self made stretch binding.