Color Guide

Top Paper Pattern

We will begin with the top instructions. For the skirt assembly, scroll down to the skirt section.

The top is divided into two halves: the A side piece, which includes the sleeve attachment, and the B side piece, which is the sleeveless bustier half. These are also labeled as the right side and left side, though you can mix and match sides for your own design.

Once you have printed and assembled the pages, you should have the following paper pattern pieces:

For the left side: one Front 1A piece, one Front 2A piece, one Back 2A piece, and one Back 1A piece. The 1A pieces are the center back and center front pieces.

For the right side: one Front 1B piece, one Front 2B piece, one Back 2B piece, and one Back 1B piece.

You should also have: one Sleeve 1 piece, one Sleeve 2 piece, a 5x5 patch, and a 3x3 patch. You may use as many patches as you like to customize your design.

Cutting

Follow the cut annotation printed on each pattern piece. This top is designed to include both a shell and a lining layer.

For example, if the pattern piece Front Left 1A says “cut 1,” you should cut one piece from your shell fabric and another from your lining fabric.

Step 1: Right Side

Start with the right back side pieces. Gather the back right 1B and 2B pieces and stack them together with right sides facing each other along the notched edge.

Sew them together using a straight stitch with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.

Once sewn, spread the seam open and press it flat with an iron.

Continue sewing the other right pieces together using the same method. Sew back right 2B to front right 2B, then sew front right 1B to front right 2B.

Match the notches carefully for alignment, and press the seams open once sewn.

Optionally, fuse a strip of interfacing along the long edge of right 1B where the eyelets and grommets will be installed on the center front edge.

Once all the right side pieces are sewn together, topstitch the pressed seams on the right side of the fabric to create tunnels.

For additional structure, you may install boning into these tunnels.

Step 2: Left Side

Repeat the same sewing method for the left side by sewing front left A to front left 2A, and back left A to back left 2A. Keep these two assemblies separate for now.

Once sewn, spread the seams open and topstitch them as before.

Then, stack the left front and left back pieces with right sides facing each other and sew them together along the shoulder edge.

Press the seam flat and lay out the newly sewn assembly in preparation for attaching the sleeve.

Step 3: Sleeve

Prepare the sleeve by gathering the sleeve 1 and sleeve 2 pieces and sewing them together along the angled edge. Clip small notches into the point if needed to pivot while sewing and create a sharp angle.

Spread the seams open, then topstitch it down on both sides, like before.

Once the sleeve is assembled, attach it to the left side. Flip the sleeve upside down with right sides facing the front and back armhole. Pin and align the sleeve evenly around the armhole.

Clip small notches into the seam allowance around the curves as needed to help the sleeve align smoothly. Then sew the sleeve to the armhole of the front and back.

Step 4: Patch and Stitches

At this stage, begin adding patches and stitch embellishments to the shell fabric. You should now have your left side assembly and right side assembly. Adding embellishments is easier while the pieces are still separate.

To add the 5x5 patch to the sleeve, gather your patch fabric and fold the 1/2 inch seam allowance toward the wrong side. Press to create a clean folded edge. Pin the patch to the sleeve and sew it all the way around, with a edge top stitch in place.

Once the patch is secured, layer on stitch embellishments. Use a large knitting needle and heavy-duty thread or yarn. With the included 1-inch stitch guide, mark holes to keep your stitches evenly spaced, or create your own design. Sew large stitches all around the patches for a bold, decorative effect.

Repeat this process for stitches around the sleeve 1 and sleeve 2 points, for adding a patch on the back of the left side, and for additional stitches along seam tunnels at the front. Apply patches and stitches to the right side as well.

Step 5: Shell

Sew the right side assembly to the left side assembly along the center back edge with right sides facing each other.

Then, close the sleeve on the left side. Start by sewing the left front and left back sides together, then continue through the armpit and sew the two sleeve sides together all the way down.

Your shell with embellishments should now be complete for the top. Repeat the same steps to create the lining layer, but note that the lining does not require patches, stitches, or boning.

Step 6: Lining and Finishings

Once both your shell and lining are complete, stack them together with right sides facing each other. Sew along the center front edges, the top edges of the right bust, and the left neckline.

Flip the top right side out. Press and align edges nicely.

Create tunnels for the center front eyelets: one tunnel at the center front edge, a middle tunnel for the eyelets, and a final tunnel outside the eyelets for additional boning support. Topstitch these tunnels on the right side of the center front left and right panels.

Then edge stitch all around the top edges of the garment. Insert any of your boning at this point. Then hem all around the bottom by folding the 0.5 inch seam allowance inward, pressing it in place, and topstitching the folded edges, or use bias trim/tape. Repeat for the sleeve hem.

Install the eyelets using the paper pattern eyelet guide. Puncture holes into the center front edges of the left and right sides and secure the eyelets or grommets. Finally, lace the center front with ribbon, cord, or lacing of your choice to close the top.

Design Variations

You can customize the top design by installing a zipper instead of eyelets at the center front. Alternatively, keep the eyelets and add a side zipper along the right side edge for easier wear.

For additional style options, consider trying the bustier for both sides, or the sleeves on both sides.

Skirt Pattern Pieces

For the skirt paper pattern, you will have the following pieces: one center front and back piece, one side front and back piece, one side patch front and back piece, and one waistband piece. You may also use the patches from the top pattern.

Cutting Your Fabric

For the skirt, the front and back pieces are identical. Cut four center front and back pieces (two for the front and two for the back), and four side front and back pieces (two for the front and two for the back). Cut four waistband pieces, which will allow you to mix and match color variations. For the side patches, cut two pieces — one for the front and one for the back.

Similar to the top, the skirt should include both shell and lining layers. For the lining, cut only the center front and back pieces and the side front and back pieces. A waistband is not needed for the lining, as the waistband will be created from a folded shell piece.

Step 1: Skirt Shell

Begin sewing the shell front pieces. Gather the four shell front pieces (two center front and two side front) and sew them together with right sides facing each other, pinning and aligning the notches.

Once sewn, Press the seams open along the wrong side. You may topstitch the seams if desired, but tunnels and boning are not required for this skirt.

Repeat the same process for the back shell skirt pieces. Once the front and back shell skirt assemblies are complete, you may add patches and stitch embellishments in the same way as the top.

Then sew the front and back of the skirt together along one side seam with right sides facing each other. Leave the other side seam unsewn to install a separate zipper later.

Step 2: Waistband

Sew the four waistband pieces together to create one long waistband. Then press the seams open along the wrong side.

Attach the waistband to the top edge of the skirt with right sides facing each other. Sew along the waist edge to secure.

Flip the waistband right side up and press along the seam for a clean, neat fold.

Step 3: Lining

Sew the lining pieces together, starting with the front lining assembly, then the back lining assembly, and finally sewing them together along one side seam, just as you did with the shell.

Once the lining is assembled, stack it right sides facing the shell and pin it along the opposite edge of the waistband. Sew along this edge to attach the shell and lining together.

Flip the shell and lining vertically in half to fold the waistband. Press the folded edge for a clean finish.

Step 4: Finishings

Prepare a separating zipper and fully separate it. Sandwich the zipper between the folded shell and lining layers with right sides facing each other, aligning the zipper from the folded waistband edge down to the bottom hem. Leave extra space at the bottom for hemming.

Sew the zipper in between the shell and lining layers. Once sewn, turn the skirt right side out through the bottom opening and topstitch along the side seam to secure the zipper in place.

Lastly, topstitch around the folded waistband edge to secure the shell and lining layers together. Finish the skirt hem by folding the 1/2 inch seam allowance inward and topstitching it in place, or by adding bias tape or trim along the bottom edge.