Installing an invisible zipper in a stretch catsuit or leotard with a collar requires careful alignment to prevent puckering and distortion. This method creates a smooth center back finish from collar to waist.
Step 1: Prepare the Garment
Sew the front and back pieces together at the shoulder seams. Attach the folded collar according to your pattern instructions before installing the zipper.
Step 2: Position the Invisible Zipper
Use a 24 inch invisible zipper. Start at the zipper teeth, not the excess tape at the top. Align the zipper teeth directly at the collar seam. Pin the zipper down to the notch so it ends about 2 inches below the waistline.
Mark the notch on the wrong side of the zipper tape on both sides to ensure even placement.
Step 3: Stabilize to Prevent Wrinkling
Place tearaway stabilizer between the right side of the garment and the right side of the zipper tape. This prevents stretching and rippling while sewing.
Using a zipper foot and a straight stitch, sew carefully along the zipper tape. After stitching, gently tear away the stabilizer.
Step 4: Attach the Second Side
Flip the zipper so right sides are facing and repeat the same steps on the opposite side, ensuring the collar seam and notches align perfectly.
Step 5: Close the Back Seam
Sew the lower back pieces together below the zipper down to the crotch using a stretch stitch and finish with a serger if desired.
Backstitch across the bottom of the zipper to secure it and create a stopper.
Fold the excess zipper tape at the top to the wrong side and tack it down neatly inside the collar.
Your invisible zipper is now installed, creating a clean and professional stretch garment finish.