Color Guide

About Pattern

This pattern is a four-way stretch sewing pattern sew including a sleeveless leotard, fingerless opera gloves, and stretch chaps. Perfect for a complete drag queen look.

Fabric Pieces

This pattern includes 9 paper pattern pieces. Use these pieces to cut your fabric before starting construction.

Piece 1, the front of the leotard, is cut on a folded fabric layer.

Piece 2, the back of the leotard, is also cut on a folded fabric layer.

Piece 3, the collar, is cut one on a folded fabric layer.

Piece 4, the arm hole trims, are cut on a folded fabric layer. Cut two.

Piece 5, the leg hole trims, are cut on a folded fabric layer. Cut two.

Piece 6, the fingerless gloves, are cut on a folded fabric layer. Cut two of them mirrored. When cutting the thumb holes, only cut one thumb opening per sleeve, mirrored so each glove has the correct orientation.

Piece 7, the glove trims, are cut on a folded fabric layer. Cut two.

Piece 8 is the stretch chaps. Cut 4 total. Use 2 mirrored for the back and 2 mirrored for the front.

Piece 9, the chaps waistband, is cut one on a folded fabric layer.

Stretch Stitches

Sew the seams using a stretch stitch. A lightning bolt stitch is preferred, or use a small zigzag stitch. Sew with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.

Once stitched, finish the raw edges on the wrong side using an overlock machine to serge and trim the seam allowance cleanly.

Preparing the Back

Take Piece 2, the back of the leotard. Along the center back, cut a vertical slit starting at the collar neckline and continuing straight down to the zipper marking. This should end approximately 2 inches below the waistline.

Make one clean, straight cut through the center back only.

At the bottom of the slit where the zipper will stop, clip a small diagonal cut into each corner. This helps release tension and allows the zipper to sit smoothly. Be sure to leave about 1/4 inch of seam allowance along each side of the center back opening for zipper installat

Sewing the Front and Back

Take the unfolded Piece 1 front and the prepared unfolded Piece 2 back. Place them right sides facing each other and align the shoulder edges.

Sew the shoulder seams using a stretch stitch. A lightning bolt stitch is preferred, or use a small zigzag stitch. Sew with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.

Once stitched, finish the raw edges together on the wrong side using an overlock machine to serge the seam allowance.

Preparing and Attaching the Collar

Take the collar. Fold it lengthwise in half along the fold line with the wrong sides facing each other. Match the raw edges and pin along the fold to keep it in place.

Turn the leotard body right side out. With the collar still folded, position it upside down so the raw edges of the collar align with the neckline. The right side of the collar should face the right side of the leotard.

Begin pinning at the center back slit and continue around the neckline. The collar notch should align with the shoulder seam. The folded edge that was cut on fold should sit at the center front of the leotard.

Pin the collar evenly around the entire neckline. Sew through both collar layers and the neckline using a stretch stitch, preferably a lightning bolt or small zigzag, with a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Then finish the raw edge with a serger on the wrong side.

Installing the Zipper

Use a 20 to 24 inch zipper for the center back. An invisible zipper is recommended, but a regular zipper may also be used. Follow the specific instructions for your zipper type.

With the leotard right side out, place one side of the zipper right sides together with one side of the center back opening, starting at the collar edge. The top of the zipper tape should align with the collar fold. Fold the excess zipper tape at the top inward so it is cleanly finished at the collar.

Sew from the collar down to the end of the slit using a straight stitch. Keep the stitching close to the zipper teeth, depending on your zipper type.

If desired, place a strip of tearaway stabilizer between the zipper tape and the fabric before sewing. This helps prevent rippling. After stitching, gently tear away any excess stabilizer.

Repeat the same steps for the opposite side of the zipper, aligning the top edges evenly at the collar and sewing down to the base of the opening.

Once installed, the excess zipper tape should lie flat on the wrong side of the garment. You may topstitch at the base of the zipper and along each side of the zipper opening for added security and a clean finish.

Closing the Body

Once the zipper is installed, turn the garment wrong side out.

Align the front and back side seams. Sew from the underarm down to the leg opening using a stretch stitch, then finish the raw edges together with a serger.

After the side seams are complete, align the front and back crotch edges. Sew along the crotch curve using a stretch stitch, then serge the raw edges.

Attaching the Leg Hole Trim

Take pieces 4 & 5, the arm hole and leg home trim. For each trim, fold it widthwise with right sides facing each other and sew the short ends together to create a continuous loop.

Next, fold the loop lengthwise with wrong sides facing each other, aligning the raw edges. Pin the raw edges together to keep the fold in place.

Locate the seam where the trim ends were sewn together. Match this seam to the point where the front and back crotch seams meet on the leotard, and the side seam of the armhole. With right sides together, pin the raw edges of the trim to the leg opening, distributing evenly around the entire curve.

Sew the trim to the arm and leg openings using a stretch stitch, keeping the folded edge facing inward toward the garment. After stitching, serge the raw edges together to finish.

Repeat the same process for the opposite arm and leg opening. Turn the garment right side and your leotard is finished.

Making the Fingerless Gloves

Take the glove pieces. Make sure the right glove has the thumb hole positioned toward the right side of the front, and the left glove has the thumb hole positioned toward the left side of the front. When worn, the thumb openings should sit correctly on each hand.

Finish the thumbhole by adding a double folded stretch bias tape, or try a rolled hem. You can also leave it raw, since this small opening can be difficult to sew.

Fold the glove lengthwise with right sides facing each other. Sew from the top to the bottom of the glove using a stretch stitch, then finish the raw edges together with a serger.

Hem the glove with a rolled hem by folding the raw edge twice, then topstitching with a stretch or zigzag stitch.

Take the glove trim piece. For each trim, fold it widthwise with right sides facing each other and sew the short ends together to create a continuous loop.

Locate the seam where the trim ends were sewn together. Match this seam to the glove seam. With right sides together, pin the raw edges of the trim to the top of the glove, distributing evenly around the entire curve.

Sew the trim to the glove opening using a stretch stitch, keeping the folded edge facing inward toward the garment. After stitching, serge the raw edges together to finish.

Making the Stretch Chaps

Take two of the front and back stretch chaps. Stack them right sides of the fabrics facing each together, aligning at the outer and inner leg seams. Sew both sides of each leg together using a stretch sitch, 1/2" seam allowance first, then finish the raw edges with a serger. Repeat for the opposite leg.

Then hem the top curved edges of the chap along the front and back, with a rolled hem by folding the raw edge twice, then topstitching with a stretch or zigzag stitch. You can also finish them with a double-fold bias trim.

For the ankle leg stirrups, sew the short ends of the stirrup sides together, right sides facing, using a stretch stitch, then serge.

Fold a rolled hem along the open edges, you can add elastic inside the folds if desired, and topstitch using a small zigzag stitch to hem. Repeat for the opposite leg.

Making the Chaps Waistband

To complete the stretch waistband with elastic for the chaps, start with the waistband piece. Fold it in half and mark a center notch on both ends within the seam allowance.

Then fold the waistband vertically in half with the right sides of the fabric facing each other.

Measure the width of the top edge of the chaps where they will be inserted into the waistband. From the center notch of the waistband, mark this distance, and repeat the same measurement from one end of the waistband divided in half.

Sew the folded waistband together along the 1/2 inch seam allowance using a stretch stitch. Leave the marked sections unsewn so the chaps can be inserted later.

Turn the waistband right side out. You should now have one center opening and two partial openings at both ends.

Next, sew the partial openings together to form a continuous waistband loop. Open the waistband so the right sides are facing each other and sew the short ends together using a straight stitch. Once sewn, the waistband will form a closed loop. You should now have two openings in the waistband: one along the side seam and one at the center of the waistband.

Insert elastic through one of the openings. The elastic should be slightly shorter than the total circumference of the waistband, depending on your desired tightness. Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and feed it through the waistband until it comes back out of the same opening.

Overlap the ends of the elastic and sew them together using a straight stitch. After joining the elastic, adjust it inside the waistband so it is evenly distributed.

Next, insert the top edges of the chaps into the openings in the waistband. Make sure the waistband seam allowance is folded inward so it is hidden inside the waistband. Pin the chaps in place and topstitch them into the waistband using a stretch stitch.

Align the side seam of the waistband with one side of the chaps. The opposite chap should align with the center of the waistband.