
Cómo coser un top corto con mangas abullonadas y volantes
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Descripción general
Dale un toque dramático a tu look con este top corto con mangas con volantes, diseñado específicamente para telas no elásticas como satén, gasa o poliéster ligero. Con mangas abullonadas, puños con volantes en capas y un lazo frontal opcional, este top es perfecto para presentaciones drag, sesiones de fotos de moda o para lucir con estilo en el día a día. El patrón incluye tallas de la XS a la 4X con medidas inclusivas, especialmente para drag queens. Con instrucciones claras y un toque visual atractivo, esta prenda es ideal para principiantes y perfecta para el escenario.
Yardas de tela
Esta prenda está diseñada para telas tejidas no elásticas, como poliéster suave, satén, gasa y materiales similares, que suelen venir en rollos de 54" de ancho. Consulta la tabla de yardas a continuación para determinar la cantidad de tela que necesitarás según tu talla.
Yardas | Metros | |
---|---|---|
XS | 1.5 | 1.5 |
S | 1.5 | 1.5 |
METRO | 1.5 | 1.5 |
Yo | 1.5 | 1.5 |
SG | 1.5 | 1.5 |
2X | 2 | 1.5 |
3X | 2 | 2 |
4X | 2 | 2 |
Telas y artículos de mercería
Tela: utilice telas tejidas no elásticas, como algodón, poliéster, rayón, satén o gasa.
Materiales: Necesitarás elástico de 2,5 cm (1") para los puños y los tirantes, así como broches para el cierre delantero. Inserciones de copa de sujetador prefabricadas (opcional).
Detalles de tallas
La parte superior está disponible en nuestros exclusivos tamaños drag queen XS-4X.
Tallas de Drag Queen
Tallas | XS | S | METRO | Yo | SG | 2X | 3X | 4X | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Pulgadas | |||||||||||
Busto | 35”-37” | 38”-40” | 40”-42” | 44”-46” | 47”-49” | 50”-52” | 53”-55” | 56”-58” | |||
Cintura | 26”-28” | 29”-31” | 32”-34” | 35”-37” | 38”-40” | 41”-43” | 44”-46” | 47”-49” | |||
Caderas | 37”-39” | 40”-42” | 43”-45” | 46”-48” | 49”-51” | 52”-54” | 54”-56” | 58”-60” | |||
Altura | 70" | 70" | 70" | 70" | 70" | 70" | 70" | 70" | |||
centímetros | |||||||||||
Busto | 89-94 | 96-102 | 102-107 | 112-117 | 119-124 | 127-132 | 135-140 | 142-147 | |||
Cintura | 66-71 | 74-79 | 81-86 | 89-94 | 96-102 | 104-109 | 112-117 | 119-124 | |||
Caderas | 94-99 | 102-107 | 109-114 | 117-122 | 124-130 | 132-137 | 137-142 | 147-152 | |||
Altura | 178 | 178 | 178 | 178 | 178 | 178 | 178 | 178 |
Nuestras exclusivas tallas de drag se basan en las tallas estándar de EE. UU. para hombre y mujer, diseñadas para hombres con relleno y una altura promedio de 180 cm. Presentan torsos más largos, hombros, brazos y piernas más anchos, y una entrepierna más corta en comparación con las tallas estándar de mujer, lo que las hace aptas para cualquier persona que cumpla con las medidas proporcionadas.
Instrucciones de costura
Color Guide

Pattern Pieces
After cutting your fabric, you should have the following pieces:
- 4 Front Pieces – 2 mirrored for the shell, and 2 mirrored for the lining
- 4 Back Pieces – 2 mirrored for the shell, and 2 mirrored for the lining
- 4 Shoulder Strap Pieces – 2 for the shell, and 2 for the lining
- 2 Sleeve Pieces – mirrored
- 4 Upper Arm Elastic Casing Pieces
- 2 Top Ruffle Pieces – cut on the fold
- 2 Bottom Ruffle Pieces – cut on the fold

Sewing the Darts
Take the four front pieces and sew the darts closed on the wrong side of the fabric for both the shell and lining pieces.

Sewing the Backs
Take the two shell back pieces, place them right sides together, and sew along the center back edge using a straight stitch. Repeat this step with the two lining back pieces.

Front and Back
Take the shell front and back pieces and sew them together along the side seams, right sides facing. Repeat this step for the lining pieces.

Shoulder Straps
Start by gathering one shell and one lining piece for a shoulder strap. Place them right sides together and sew along one long edge.
Flip the strap right side out, then sew along the opposite edge with a topstitch on the right side of the fabric. This creates a tunnel with one raw edge left for attaching the sleeve later.

Insert elastic through the tunnel using a loop turner or a paperclip. Stretch the elastic so both ends line up with the ends of the strap, then sew the ends of the elastic and strap together using a few straight stitches to secure.
Then repeat for opposite strap.

Attaching the Straps
Gather the two strap pieces, along with the top shell and top lining.
Lay the shell right side up. Place the straps on top, aligning their raw edges with the armhole openings, and pin the ends to the front and back notches.
Next, place the lining right side down on top, so the straps are sandwiched between the shell and lining with right sides facing.
Sew the strap ends in place at the front and back positions.

Shell and Lining
Sew the shell and lining together with right sides facing, stitching only along the top back edge, the side edges of the front, and the bottom edge of the top. Leave the armholes open so you can turn the top right side out.
Flip the top right side out through the armholes and press all sewn edges flat.
If you're doing drag, you can insert premade bra cups into the front sections. Then topstitch the shell and lining together along the side seam to create a closed pocket for the cups.

Puff Sleeves
Take one sleeve piece and identify the notches — the back side has two notches, while the front side has one.
Hand sew a loose basting stitch between the notches, leaving long thread tails at each end. Gently pull on the tails to gather the fabric between the notches.
Stretch the shoulder strap (with the elastic inside) and measure it against the gathered section to ensure the lengths match.
Fold the sleeve vertically in half, right sides facing, and sew the underarm seam.

Then, with right sides together, pin and sew the sleeve to the raw armhole edge of the top. This step can be tricky — you’ll need to stretch the elastic in the shoulder strap as you sew, while also securing the gathered section of the sleeve in place. Once sewn you can remove the basting stitch.

Ruffle Sleeves
Take two upper arm cuff casing pieces and place them wrong sides facing. Sew along the top and bottom edges to create a tunnel for the elastic. You should now have one top raw edge and one bottom raw edge.

Insert the elastic into the tunnel, just like before. Stretch it so both ends of the elastic align with the ends of the cuff casing, then sew the elastic and ends in place to secure.
Fold the cuff vertically in half with right sides facing, and sew the short ends together to form a closed cuff loop.

Now take one top ruffle circle and one bottom ruffle circle — the top ruffle should be smaller than the bottom. Stack them right sides together, aligning and pinning along the inner raw edge.
Sew the ruffles together along the pinned edge, then attach them to the bottom raw edge of the cuff.

Finally, sew the top raw edge of the cuff around the bottom of the puff sleeve. You may need to slightly gather the sleeve’s bottom edge to match the width of the cuff.
Finish any exposed or raw edges around the sleeves with a serger or zigzag stitch.

Finishing Snaps
Lastly, install one male and one female snap to the open front ends, following the placement guide on the paper pattern. Use a snap tool for secure installation.
Snap the front closed, then tie the excess front ends around the snap to create a tied look.
Your garment is now finished!








