Color Guide

About Pattern

This is a four way stretch full body catsuit sewing pattern designed for bold stage presence and high impact performance looks. It works perfectly as a base costume for drag, dance, or layered stage outfits.

The fit is tight and form fitting to sculpt the body. It includes a crotch gusset for added mobility and comfort, making it ideal for dancing and movement heavy performances. Designed for four way stretch fabrics only.

Fabric Pieces

This pattern includes paper pattern pieces. Use these pieces to cut your fabric before starting construction.

Piece 1, the front of the catsuit, is cut one on the fold to create a seamless center front and smooth, sculpted finish.

Piece 2, the back of the catsuit, is cut as two mirrored pieces to form the full back.

Piece 3, the sleeve, is cut two on the fold. The sleeves are symmetrical for both arms except for the thumb hole. Mirror the thumb hole placement so each sleeve has the correct opening. Only one thumb hole opening is needed per sleeve.

Piece 4, the crotch gusset, is cut one on the fold. The gusset allows for flexibility and movement, and you may adjust its size slightly depending on your preferred fit or alterations.

Piece 5, the collar, is cut one on the fold.

Sewing the Front and Back

Take the front and back catsuit pieces and stack them with right sides facing each other. Align and pin along both shoulder seams.

Sew the shoulder seams using a stretch stitch. A lightning bolt stitch is preferred, or use a small zigzag stitch. Sew with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.

Once stitched, finish the raw edges on the wrong side using an overlock machine to serge and trim the seam allowance cleanly.

Preparing and Attaching the Collar

Take the collar. Fold it lengthwise in half along the fold line with the wrong sides facing each other. Match the raw edges and pin along the fold to keep it in place.

Turn the catsuit body right side out. With the collar still folded, position it upside down so the raw edges of the collar align with the neckline. The right side of the collar should face the right side of the catsuit.

Begin pinning at the center back slit and continue around the neckline. The collar notch should align with the shoulder seam. The folded edge that was cut on fold should sit at the center front of the catsuit.

Pin the collar evenly around the entire neckline. Sew through both collar layers and the neckline using a stretch stitch, preferably a lightning bolt or small zigzag, with a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Then finish the raw edge with a serger on the wrong side.

Installing the Zipper

Use a 20 to 24 inch zipper for the center back. An invisible zipper is recommended, but a regular zipper may also be used. Follow the specific instructions for your zipper type.

With the catsuit right side out, place one side of the zipper right sides together with one side of the center back opening, starting at the collar edge. The top of the zipper tape should align with the collar fold. Fold the excess zipper tape at the top inward so it is cleanly finished at the collar.

Sew from the collar down to the end of the slit using a straight stitch. Keep the stitching close to the zipper teeth, depending on your zipper type.

If desired, place a strip of tearaway stabilizer between the zipper tape and the fabric before sewing. This helps prevent rippling. After stitching, gently tear away any excess stabilizer.

Repeat the same steps for the opposite side of the zipper, aligning the top edges evenly at the collar and sewing down to the base of the opening.

Once installed, the excess zipper tape should lie flat on the wrong side of the garment. You may topstitch at the base of the zipper and along each side of the zipper opening for added security and a clean finish.

Once the zipper is secured to the back pieces, sew the remaining gap below the zipper at the back crotch.

Attaching the Sleeves

Take the sleeve pieces. Make sure the right sleeve has the thumb hole positioned toward the right side of the front, and the left sleeve has the thumb hole positioned toward the left side of the front. When worn, the thumb openings should sit correctly on each hand.

Finish the thumbhole by adding a double folded stretch bias tape, or try a rolled hem. You can also leave it raw, since this small opening can be difficult to sew.

Lay the catsuit body flat with the right side facing up. Take one sleeve and place it right sides together with the armhole, aligning the sleeve cap with the shoulder seam.

Pin the sleeve along the armhole curve up to the shoulder point. You may find it easier to sew one side at a time rather than pinning the entire sleeve at once.

Sew the sleeve to the armhole using a stretch stitch, such as a lightning bolt or small zigzag, with a 1/2 inch seam allowance. After sewing, finish the raw edges together using a serger.

Repeat for the opposite sleeve.

Attaching the Gusset

Place the back piece right side up. Position the gusset right facing over the center back crotch area. The middle of the gusset should align with the center back seam edge, and the pointed ends should aim toward the notches near the inner thigh.

Pin the gusset in place, then sew using a stretch stitch with a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Then serge.

Do not sew the other side of the gusset to the front piece yet. That will be attached and finished later.

Closing the Body

Turn the garment wrong side out. Align the sleeve underarm edges and sew from the wrist up through the underarm to the armpit using a stretch stitch, and serge the raw edges. Repeat for the opposite sleeve.

Next, align the front and back side seams. Sew from the underarm down to the bottom leg opening using a stretch stitch, then serge.

Hem the sleeves with a rolled hem by folding the raw edge twice, then topstitching with a stretch or zigzag stitch.

After the side seams are complete, align the front and back gusset edges. Sew along the crotch and inner leg seams using a stretch stitch, then serge.

For the ankle leg stirrups, first serge the raw edges. Then sew the short ends of the stirrup sides together, right sides facing, using a stretch stitch, then serge.

Insert elastic into the middle of the stirrup loop. Fold a rolled hem along the open edges, enclosing the elastic inside, and topstitch using a small zigzag stitch to hem and secure. Repeat for the opposite leg.

Turn the garment right side and your pointed shoulder catsuit is finished.