Understanding stretch direction is critical before cutting your fabric. Two way and four way stretch fabrics behave differently and will affect fit.
Two way stretch fabric stretches in one direction only, usually from selvage to selvage. It may have little to no stretch vertically. This type of fabric works well for fitted garments, but you must place the stretch around the body where movement is needed.
Four way stretch fabric stretches both horizontally and vertically. This allows the garment to move with the body in all directions, making it ideal for catsuits, leotards, and performance wear.
Most Katkow stretch patterns are designed specifically for four way stretch fabrics. It is strongly recommended to always use four way stretch for our designs to ensure proper fit and mobility.
On Katkow patterns, we include a stretch direction symbol printed on the pattern pieces. The direction with the greatest stretch should run horizontally, going around the body width wise. This allows the garment to stretch comfortably across the chest, waist, hips, and shoulders.
Using two way stretch when four way is required can cause tight shoulders, restricted movement, or fit issues in the torso.
To test stretch, gently pull the fabric horizontally and vertically. If it stretches both ways, it is four way stretch. If it stretches in only one direction, it is two way stretch.
Always read your pattern fabric requirements before cutting. Choosing the correct stretch type and orientation ensures proper fit, comfort, and durability.