A blind stitch, also called a blind hem stitch, is a hand-sewing method that hides stitches on the outside of your fabric. It works well for hems on skirts, pants, dresses, and costumes where you want a clean finish.
Fold the raw edge under once, then fold again to enclose the edge. Press so the fold holds its shape.
Cut about 18 inches of thread. Knot one end and thread the needle. Use a color that blends with your fabric.
Slide the needle under a few threads of the main fabric without piercing to the front. This keeps the stitch hidden.
Insert the needle through the folded hem edge and pull snug so the stitch is secure.
Alternate tiny bites in the main fabric with longer passes inside the fold. Keep spacing even for an invisible line on the outside.
Tie a small knot inside the fold at the end. Trim the thread and press the hem for a smooth finish.
Watch these helpful sewing tutorial videos to help guide you.
Most issues come from taking bites that are too big, piercing through to the front, or pulling the thread too tight. Keep each bite to 1–2 threads of the garment fabric, skim inside the layer instead of exiting the right side, and aim for even spacing with snug, not tight, tension. Always press the fold before sewing and give it a final press at the end for a smooth hem.
Match thread color and sheen to the fabric, choose a suitable thread weight, and use the right needle size so you do not leave visible dots or snags. Work with shorter thread lengths to avoid tangles, secure your start and finish inside the fold, and check the right side every few inches under good lighting. A quick test on a scrap saves time and fixes settings before you touch the garment.
Adapt the method to the fabric. For knits, avoid stretching the edge and take smaller bites, or use a slight zigzag catch if needed. On thick fabrics, grade the hem or use a bias facing to reduce bulk, and on curved hems ease the fold or narrow the allowance to prevent ripples. For very light sheers or very heavy cloth, consider alternatives like a baby hem or catch stitch, and let bias-cut hems hang before leveling and stitching.
Yes. They are the same technique with different names.
Many machines have a blind hem setting. Hand sewing gives more control for tricky fabrics.
Use it when you want an invisible hem on formal wear, drag looks, and any project that needs a polished finish.
About 6 to 10 mm apart. Go closer on light fabrics and a bit wider on thick hems.
Yes if secured well. Use polyester thread, make small bites, secure the start and end, then press. A gentle cycle helps.
